Commentary on the Religious and the Conservative

Best part about rainy days in Jerusalem: the religious men. seriously.
Before I begin, let us go over the standard appearance of these men, so we all start on the same page. Black suit, white dress shirt, often another heavy, formal black coat over. Underneath their dress shirts, they wear special tunic/garment things with tzitzim (kind of like tassles) on the four corners. Actually some wear them over their shirts, but let's not get too complicated. The point is that the tzitzim hang out so everyone can see them. Religious men wear a black kippah (or yammuka, the smaller head-covering that many Jewish men wear), and on top of that they wear a big black hat that has a wide brim. Most of these men have (unmanecured) beards, and all have peyot, one lock of hair hanging over each ear, usually curled. The thought on the curled thing is that it becomes that way from the men twirling it as they study the Torah or other holy stuff. These men have looked like this for centuries.

But the fun really starts when it rains. The pants are folded under and (it looks like) tucked into the socks, resulting in a capri-like trouser with black socks and black shoes, and looking kind of like pictures I've seen of little English boys running around in their shorts before they're old enough to wear pants. The big hats that the men wear are still present, but often wrapped in plastic to keep them dry, or something. I've never asked. It looks like some weird version of the women in Africa and that who carry water on their heads - except it's these very serious grown men with plastic sacks on their heads, in capri-shorts and stockings.
I was on the bus today, when a religious man got on and sat in the seat in front of me, looking pretty normal. His peyot were twisted and wrapped around his ears (hilarious, but pretty typical - I think it helps them keep shape). But then, he took out a plastic bag. Put his hat in the plastic bag. And put the whole thing back on his head. So he was sitting there with his hair wrapped around his ears and a plastic bag on his head, but still a serious, religious man. I was fascinated - it was only like a foot away, and I couldn't stop staring. Good thing it was in front and not to the side or something, I couldn't look away no matter how rude it might be. My lips were clamped so I wouldn't grin like an idiot, but I had to clench my jaw, too, so I wouldn't start laughing. When he stood up I saw that he was wearing the Jew-capri, and my stomach hurt from the effort not to react. CLASSIC. I didn't have my camera today, and now it probably won't rain anymore so I won't be able to show you. aw man...

For more complete, less scattered information about Hassidic Judaism, the Wikipedia site is pretty good:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hasidic_Judaism

on another but kind of related rant....
Everyone knows that Jerusalem is a complicated city (to put it mildly). Its location on the border of the West Bank and Israel, and being a major player for all 3 major monotheistic religions makes for a very tumultuous existence that can be felt in the air. But what there is less international commentary on (until now! hahaha) are the intra-Israeli cultural and religious divisions that, for me, are as palpable as the rest of it.

What the heck am I talking about? Ok well I just wrote a whole thing about how funny the religious Jewish men look when it rains, right? Well the people in Israel, and especially in Jerusalem, run all the way from ubersuperultraorthodox (there are neighborhoods where women have been stoned for not covering up properly) to secular-modern, like anyone you could see in any Western country. Accordingly, there are all variations of political and social values. And Jerusalem, being in such a politically volitile location, is a hotbed for active and passive expression of those views.

A while ago, Jews opposed to the unilateral withdrawls from the occupied territories took to wearing orange ribbons to express their support for settlers who wouldn't leave. Today, there are still orange ribbons all over the city, an indication of Jerusalem's large conservative population. But there is more to it than that, even though I find that alone very disconcerting. I mean, how hypocritical is it for Jews to whine about being kicked out of their homeland and not having a place to settle for 5,000 years, and then go and put others in the exact same situation? end rant. well, that rant.

Orange has come to be the token color for the resistance movement. To me, the worst is when the settlers who were being forced to move (after refusing to do so themselves) tried to liken themselves to Holocaust victims, as if they were the same as Jews and others being vicitimized by the Nazis. It makes me sick. They even wore (orange) stars of David, just like the Jews were forced to do by the Nazis. Can you believe that? And that is all part of the orange, conservative movement that actually has a lot of support in this city. It is insane, and makes me feel disgusted with people who hide behind the cover of religion to manipulate and repress others.

I think this is something that not many people outside of the Israeli/Jewish community might know about, and I have strong feelings about it so I wanted to share. Since I can. And no one can interrupt me, ahahahaa... But it is also an integral part and daily reality of living in Jerusalem. There are orange ribbons. Religiously dressed men and women everywhere (I'm not sure if I'll be comfortable wearing strappy tank tops in summer, that's how strong the religious presence here is).

This has come out souding like Jerusalem is this stifling, oppressive, awful place, and I want to stress that it really isn't. It is amazing and magical, but this is also part of it. The mix from the right and left are part of what make it such a unique place. Since we all know what the Western influences look like, it is more meaningful to describe the other part, that many people in the US are never exposed to. But you really need to be here to truely feel it. I love visitors anytime!